Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. Not counting my time lost at work due to having to try to get the vehicle running since it was a Saturday and having to change all filtration due to the unknown but pointing to fuel delivery. Oasis report is 6 pages long already. Turbo quit working while driving and had to be replaced in may, 2007. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at? After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. Is this a common problem? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
I'm not sure where to go from here. I had my 3yr old daughter on that side of the vehicle. I just did a bunch of work on my 6. It was a very dangerous situation, that could have resulted in a major accident causing major trauma or death. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them. But now when I got it all put back together and went to start it up now have no crank at all, the wrench light is coming on, when I hook up my scangauge it will not connect so I can't get any readings or codes I have checked all the fuses that have to do the the ignition system.
These also vary a little depending on if you have a power stroke turbo and if you run fuel additives, and if you let it idle during a hockey game, because it is -30 outside. I can get it to crank if I jump the starter wire to the battery. We had to transfer the children into a tow truck with moving traffic on both sides of us. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? Yesterday we made the same 200 mile trip over the mountains, seemed to run strong. I have seen on the Ford truck enthusiast websites that I am not alone.
The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor. This site may, at times, run advertising banners or text link ads from entities mentioned on these pages. I really need to get this figured out my mini Cooper is waiting for a new clutch to get here and with my truck down I can't get to my job sites next week. I have a 2004 6. There's no consistent situation I have noticed, has stalled at highway speeds, as well as at a stop light. For a Ford 460 engine the passenger side cylinder bank carries cylinders 1,2,3,4 with 1 being the front most cylinder, the drivers side bank carries 5,6,7,8 with 5 being the front.
While backing out of my driveway, the vehicle accelerated rearward and only by my having my foot near the brake pedal, stopped it from racing rearward. According to my local dealer this is a common failure and when they fail it is sudden and complete. Is this a coincidence that this came on after they got done, or could something they did while tinting the windows tripped this? The warranty is going to end in august this year. I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. Removed old one and installed the new one. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak.
Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6. So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks. I am getting the icp code. The situation is quite dangerous. Is there any risk of doing damage? The distributor spins counter clockwise, and the firing order should be 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
I have had 2 engine failures were my engine would quit and not restart. Again, a very dangerous condition. Obviously it affects many more trucks than the 47,000. In June, 2007, vehicle has more turbo issues and egr cooler assembly is replaced. If the firing order is changed or adjusted, the ignition from the spark plug is delivered at the wrong time and the engine functions poorly or does not run. As I drove off down the road after determining I wasn't going to hurt the truck, the air temp sensor went from showing -40 to the actual temperature.
I had a 2000 with the 7. I have talked to other owners that this has happened also in f250 and f350 pickups with the 7. I did a visual inspection of both the sensor and pigtail checking for oil but it looks to me like everything is clean and oil free see pictures. In addition, the contact stated that every time the heater or air conditioner was activated, fumes would emit into the vehicle. I cleared the code, ran around town again and the light came on again same code.
Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing. Really depends on what you are doing. The problem was rather sporadic when I first noticed some time ago, but is becoming more frequent. My questions is what does this indicate? I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it? Use this information at your own risk. But this sudden failure of the cam position sensor or cps could have caused a serious accident. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy.
Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction of camshaft intake to identify a particular cylinder. I am getting code P2285 and according a to a Ford Message this may be because of a bad connection that there is a kit to fix it. The truck restarted, but there was a profound loss of power rendering it undriveable. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start.