These carburetors have the following characteristics to aid in identification if the tag is missing : Bottom stamp if still present : 284s — 220; 285s — 221 Low idle screw 2-hole bowl cover 2-hole airhorn 1935 Chevrolet The 284s from 1934 was held over and used on early production 1935 Master cars. Carbking is the guy to talk to about these carbs. He seemed to feel that the W-1s won't put out enough for a 292. Also still willing to listen to other suggestions as long as they include carbs that have the air horn that will accept the early 1940's truck clamp-on style air cleaners. All previous W-1 carburetors used a steel arm affixed to a brass countershaft.
Please do not distribute these manuals. Try googling: carb cfm formula or carb cfm calculator - and find one that you understand. I've tried Jim Carter and they have no cores and are way too over-priced. This article should aid in the identification of the carburetor in question. Don't forget to visit the technical pages for your specific carburetor.
The other two I have do not have the vertical linkage, and as expected open the throttle butterfly when the throttle shaft is pushed toward acceleration. Are these carbs reliable for everyday driving or should I switch to something else would like to keep car original if possible but want reliability. The W-1's to use are 483 and 574, they all have the same feature, and that is a fuel bowl vent tube. Hi everyone I have a 1933 Chevy coupe with its W-1 carb and its running rough does anybody have a an assembly diagram of one? I have pulled the carb down twice more and can't see anything wrong. He hates the Model B, and loves his Carters. I got the car running without dramas including buying a kit and rebuilding the carb.
Previous pumps had been rebuildable, with a threaded round brass shaft and a nut, washer, and thimble that held a replaceable leather cup. I figure they should be fine. Fuel pump isn't the issue, I installed an external pump running from a fuel can and it made no difference. These carburetors differ from the 1938 versions primarily in the design of the throttle shaft. The workshop manual doesn't show many detailed pictures. This is the first year W-1 that we can recommend using on daily drivers as well as number-matching showcars. Everything is explained in the factory shop manuals, and they provide a exploded view in the instructions that come with the kits.
The 434s still has three bends, but they differ from the 1938 Fleet unit. You guys shouldn't be afraid of rebuilding a Model B yourself. It now starts fairly easily and feels good at low revs but in the mid and higher end of the rev range the car surges and bucks badly, pulling the choke on smooths it out again and it gets down the road quite well. I set up a dial indicator and change the adjustment. While the driveability of these units is much improved over the 1933, they are scarce, expensive, and problematic.
More manuals for specific carburetors may be available there. Each engine will be slightly different so my depth will be different then what yours might be. I got some good info from the stovebolt forum. If I'm lucky, they will be just fine and I'll go along my merry way. These carburetors have the following characteristics to aid in identification if the tag is missing : Bottom stamp if still present : 259s — 03; 260s — 13 High idle mixture screw 2-hole bowl cover 2-hole airhorn Distributor vacuum port 1934 Chevrolet — The W-1 carburetors for 1934 received the first major design change, that of moving the idle mixture control screw from the top of the idle circuit in 1932 and 1933, to the lower part of the throttle body.
The older the carb the harder it is to find parts for. Are the brackets and connecting rods the same for all W1 variants or do I need to obtain them from another 314? The 684 was the last one in the series, and can be used also, but they are a little more expensive to rebuild. I have 4 of them right now. It doesn't require any special tools. As long as the body isn't warped, and the throttle shaft hole isn't worn out, there's no reason you can't rebuild them.
When I stripped the carb I was unable to remove the plug at the bottom of the accelerator pump passage, someone has glued it in place but the pump is delivering a good shot of fuel so I wasn't too concerned. Any advice here would be appreciated. While many parts will physically interchange from carburetor to carburetor, they may not correctly function. And I'm saying straight away that you guys were right about the autozone carburetors. Instead giving out the link to this web page would be appreciated. These carburetors have the following characteristics to aid in identification if the tag is missing : Bottom stamp if still present : 346s — 292; 358s — 305 Throttle arm has three bends previous units had none Two-piece choker valve 1938 Chevrolet — The 1937 Fleet 358s was retained for 1938. But I figure that the Model B was used for many years and must have worked alright to stay in production for so long.