I have printed out the following codes: C1145; C1185; C1198; C1194; C1254; C1246; C1250; C1242; C1214; C1210 and C1446. Actually I'm about as far as you could get from an expert on cars. Not throwing any more money at it. Wish I had never gotten it. The guy that makes them constantly updates the software and will answer any questions about its use.
This can be very useful tool to point you in the right direction in solving issues. Sure enough, the lights never came on once during the whole trip. Did not check for the leak before taking it in. I own a 2003 Windstar. We bought a 2002 Windstar a few weeks ago.
I've only ben driving it around for a couple of hours now. I put in the jumper wire and now it is blowing 10 again. In my case, I was trying to diagnose the speedo issue. Most vehicle salesman are conditioned to persuade you into obtaining a vehicle that you simply do not need, or extremely doesnt meet you. Anyone have any tips or suggestions for replacing the module? Some of these problems you would need a professional type scan tool! Now it does not run right and will stall or accelerate on its own. Abs code c1230 it reads wheel speed sensor rear center input circuit fail, i want to know which rear wheel sensor it is that failed. If there's play, the hub bearings are shot and will need to be replaced.
You will notice that the engine light comes on when you first turn your ignition to the on position. Anybody got a pin-out for the connector? I waited about 2 hours for this recall to be performed - I don't know how long it actually took them but it certainly wasn't a 5 minute thing. I have a 2002 Ford windstar with about 132k miles. Been turning wrenches long enough to know, anything is possible. I drove it and when I got home I shut if off and then restarted it. Trying to fix not knowing what your doing never works.
Just to be sure I pulled the connector out of the switch and checked both the plug and socket, all were dry, then left it disconnected. It has a mind of its own, comes and goes. If there is a drastic difference then I would repalce the one that got a bad code. However after starting the van and beginning to back up, they were back on. The multifunction switch has nothing to do with the dash light's Instrument Cluster and Panel Illumination The instrument cluster and panel lighting system is powered through the headlamp switch and the panel dimmer switch.
The dealers know about this and will try to sell you a whole axle. Never seen a good drive at 85mph fix a wheel speed sensor, but I guess if it was just full of crap more likely metallic brake dust that can interfere with the magnetic field on the reluctor wheel than spider webs and dirt , a good drive may have cleaned some of that out. If they do, then you can start conducting pin-point tests. I will post a follow up after I drive the thing for a few weeks. Anyone have any other ideas? The diagonal circuits are hydraulically isolated so that a leak or malfunction in one circuit will allow continued braking ability on the other.
Enter the 5 character trouble codes in the search box and submit the search. I have cleaned the entire inside of the drum with brake cleaner and wirebrushed the sensor rotor clean and shiny. Its is to the tenth of a mph, or kph if you choose. Crawled under and checked the spare. I'm hoping from the boundless experience here I can get this diagnosed and fixed.
The first ones were on the front axles about 3 years ago. Had dealer do the recall. I would pull the rear drums and clean everything up. The lights are usually off when I start and come on sometime while I am driving. You have good advice, I'll try backprobing the sensors. For me the code is intermittent. I got it a few years back and it has paid for itself just in possible diagnostic fees that service centers charge.