It might be that the switch is faulty and kicking the pump relay out. Just bought a 1991 K1500 short bed with the 5. I drove the truck in the garage and removed the engine. The injector should have around 1. Plus, you will get a new ignition control module as well.
I think it would pay you to have a good set of diagnostics run. I have replaced the ecm. By the way get a used one. Fuel pressure should be 9 to 13 psi. I'll get the switch swapped out this weekend when I get a chance and post the results. Anything else you think might be the culprit? If your vehicle uses a crank pickup with or instead of dist pick up.
. It never started on the first try, but does on the second, or if you crank the engine for about 8 to 10 seconds on the first attempt. I painted the engine , but scraped all places where there was a ground lead to be anchered. You can also use the scope to monitor the ground side of the injector to watch for both drivers signatures, and their inductive kick on turn off which is an indicator of the strength of the magnetic field that was created when the computer turned the injector on. It seems to bounce a lot, is that normal? I have a bright spark.
Ran fine and the next day it wouldnt start. I have checked and replace the ignition module, the fuel pump and sock, the fuel relay,and the computer. It will also start and run with the key if we use starter fluid or gasoline through the throttle body. Where would the ground from the ecm be located. Pulled cap and found several problems in distributor. Replacing the module has been the fix probably 90% of the time.
If you look at the wiring off the pickup coil you will see it goes to the module. I put the two grounds that were on the intake and thermostat housing on the thermostat housing together. A test light will not work for this. I can see now that the older engines got their reference from the ignition module. Blinking light means you are getting power to the injectors. I'm remembering a truck I had with exposed wiring at the injector harness that kept blowing a fuse. To have both stop working at the same time is not very likely.
You can check the positive side with a test light with the key on. Is there a security tell tail light on the instrument panel? He apolgized for missing it the first time around. Been there done that on my 93 a few years ago. It's good that you back-tracked on that poor ground. You've gotten me very confused. That caused low vacuum and messed with the engine controller. You should hear it click and fuel should spray.
I removed the engine, had it rebuilt, and put it back in the truck. Rasmataz, Thanks for the reply. A little history on the truck. I drove the truck in the garage and removed the engine. The other five percent are caused by loss of spark, or loss of injector pulses, or a non-running fuel pump. I have checked for fuel pressure and have it after the eng.
I disconnected the harness to the injectors and tested with a noid light and the light flashed on for all 6 injectors. I've never heard of a coil heating that fast and self destructing. It ran like crap at idle for maybe 30 seconds or so then died. I tried to start it and no spray from the injectors. Where would the ground from the ecm be located.
It sounds like it could be one of a couple things. This model does not have a crank sensor and I cannot find a parts listing for a cam sensor. All I need is 1 second of negative injector pulse before I hit the starter and the truck fires up instantly. After all, once the replacement is plugged in you own it whether or not it fixed the problem. I can pour fuel in the throttle body and it runs.