Also inspect the exhaust system. The auspicious three pointed star symbolizing dominance over land, sea and air was a portent of Mercedes Benz's sweeping success as an automotive manufacturer. It may be possible that it has failed. There is also a throttle valve built into the pump that controls the rate of fluid let into the pump from the reservoir. It puts the struts through travel ranges and components under loads that are not typically seen in day to day driving. If less than the distance between the two dipsticks, it suggests a bad accumulator but i would be surprised if this is the case since your accumulators are all new.
See this thread for more details: The Control Module If the control module senses inadequate pressure to operate, or if any of the sensors provide in-plausible data, the system will shut itself down for safety reasons. Assuming the warning message is not staying on the dash, the car will probably stay drivable although handling will suffer. The pulsation dampener has worn out. It is hard to know one way or the other. Pretty sure I have a bad one, just not sure which.
So what is the problem? The pump is having to step in and help lift the car. The shops are going to do what they think best. Sorry for the delay in responding. I truly pleased in all ways! There are three accumulators placed strategically in the system. Knowing that might explain the larger issue. On the R230 it is located in the front-left wheel well. You should pull over or risk the tires coming into contact with the wheel linings or fender.
And it has enough power to perform like a muscle car, especially the astonishingly smooth V-12. My question is in relation to the locking valves in the valve block. This travel sensor can fail. It won't be able to tell the difference between a weak pump and a pressure limiting valve letting off pressure too soon. Based on my description, do you think its likely the tandem pump? Try visually checking the ride height sensors in each wheel well for damage or loose connections. The car has sat since them with me only starting it and running for a few minutes every week or two.
Hi, Darren I changed pulsation dampeer. I will post more once I receive the diagnosis from mechanic. Thank you for this insightful and informative guide. I really appreciate your time to respond. Once you identify the corner with the bad sensor, the next step is to determine if it is the ride height sensor or the travel sensor.
If you can smell hot oil on your vehicle, then the engine lubricant could be leaking onto the exhaust system. With no B-pillar, the coupe requires seats that incorporate the entire seat belt mechanism, and the seat belts move fore and aft with the seats themselves to provide comfort at whatever level of adjustment. Is the process to remove the accumulators and the valve block difficult or is just a few bolts and screws? I've always checked the internet before taking my car to the shop to see if it's something I can do myself. A small piece of hardened sediment , a strand of hair, a grain of sand, is all it takes to prevent a good seal and cause the corner to sag overnight. Its so expensive to drive and maintain.
It will open when the pressure exceeds its designed limit ~200 bars , allowing any excess pressure to be bled off. On starting and running the engine, the warnings were gone, but the fluid level in the reservoir dropped close to empty No Fluid. The majority of issues are hydraulic related. Listing was accurate but didn't show serious delamination. You should also stick to the maintenance schedules and meet the requirements specified by the manufacturer.
The reason being is that hydraulic systems do better when used regularly. I am a veteran retiree on a fixed income. If you find one, please let me know and I'll update the blog so can help others out. There is a sensor in each strut that reports how far extended the strut is. If you also find you need to keep your fluid levels somewhat below normal to keep the reservoir from overflowing, it indicates a failed accumulator in the process of losing all its air. Start your inspection by checking the fluid in the reservoir.
Either the pump is failing again or the accumulators are worn out. This was a successful repair. I do not see any leakage of the blocks or the suspensions. My questions are these and hopefully you can answer for me: 1. If you google for it you should be able to find the procedure on one of the forums. Funnily enough, the proles scurrying about in their Corollas and Civics pay the big silver Merc little mind. In this scenario the control module will sense the need for more pressure and tell the suction valve on the pump to open up, and meanwhile the pressure limiting valve will constantly route all that extra fluid back to the reservoir in an endless loop.
If you were doing some work and want to get the air out immediately, you can do so by using the ride height button. It can take 5-10 minutes for the system to depressurize, so be patient before taking measurements or beginning repairs. Be sure to park with the wheels oriented straight ahead to avoid wheel well damage, and to start the car periodically to pump up the strut. It's impressively effective, and the system even lets the driver dial in the following distance he wants. BodyTypeFilter selectedBodyTypeGroupIdList, bodyTypeGroupIdToNameMap, null ; bodyTypeFilter.